I don’t know a thing about chess – in fact, it was necessary to google the game’s terms to come up with what I hope is an appropriate title for this post. I do however have strong opinions about what is beautiful and clever and NOT TO BE MISSED. In that category, I highly suggest you make a reservation to view World Chess Hall of Fame‘s “A Queen Within, Adorned Archetypes, Fashion & Chess.” It’s one of the most stunning and imaginative exhibitions I have ever seen.
It may seem a bit odd to pair fashion and chess, until you understand what museum director Susan Barrett had to play with and how, along with a team of curators, fashion insiders and chess players, she created a remarkable tribute to the queen, the most powerful chess piece on the board. Working with what is the world’s largest private collection of the late and legendary British designer Alexander McQueen’s work, Barrett consulted with curators at New York’s Metropolitan Museum and other institutions that had McQueen exhibitions in the past. She also connected with British curator, designer, scholar, and speaker Sophia Hedman, who a year after their collaboration began, traveled to St. Louis with a team of four designers to mount the exhibition at the WCHOF.
McQueen and his muse, Isabella Blow, are shown above in a photograph taken by David La Chapelle. As you might surmise from the photograph, McQueen’s runway shows were not typical affairs, but instead were staged as performance art. In 2005 McQueen dressed his models as chess pieces complete with headpieces (see first photo), and had them enact the game on a life-size board. Now you can understand why this earlier event became the Checkmate for Susan Barrett and World Chess Hall of Fame.
What I also learned in researching this post is that until the rise of the monarchy in Europe the queen had no power. That changed with the powerful reign of both Queen Elizabeth I and Queen Isabella of Castile, and thereafter the queen became the most powerful piece on the board.
The goal of World Chess Hall of Fame in bringing “A Queen Within” to the museum is to attract women and girls, a small fraction of whom play chess, to the game. Spokesperson Amanda Cook said that studies show girls who play chess earn higher test scores, learn to focus and strategize, and also learn to hold their own playing against boys, who are traditional students of the game.
Each room on the two floors of the museum features different personalities of a queen. The first room, above, is dedicated to the couture of Alexander McQueen and is titled the Queen as Sage.
There are thirty-five international designers included in the exhibition. In the “Queen as Mother” room, there is an unusual “snake” dress, above, created by French designer Iris van Herpen, and the multi-zippered “Take Off Ensemble” by Japanese designer Hideki Seo, below.
Serena Gili, a student at London’s Central Saint Martin’s, designed the gown left. Alexander McQueen also studied at Saint Martin’s.
Korean designer Minju Kim created the woolen coat with shoulder piece and headdress, right.
The Queen as Explorer also features the work of Japanese designer Hideki Seo, above.
The Queen as Enchantress, above.
The installation of Queen as Mother Earth, above, is absolutely stunning!
St. Louis designer Michael Drummond (see earlier post here) designed the white platform shoe, far left, in the second floor room titled Queen as Heroine.
Tucked away on the top floor of World Chess Hall of Fame is a pop-up shop, Flux by Q Boutique, that was created just for “A Queen Within.” The shop, open by appointment, features rare pieces of clothing and accessories you won’t find elsewhere.
“A Queen Within” has attracted approximately 800 people to World Chess Hall of Fame over the first twelve days it’s been open. The preview party, held at Saks Fifth Avenue a couple of weeks ago, was a sell-out by the end of August. It’s a real coup for the Central West End to have this exhibition and related exhibit of photography by Parisian Anne Deniau, McQueen’s favorite photographer, at Philip Slein Gallery in our midst. Thanks to the staff at World Chess Hall of Fame for making it happen. It gives us even more reason to celebrate art in the neighborhood.
“A Queen Within,” until April 18, 2014, reservations at World Chess Hall of Fame website, $10 admission. For guided tours and groups of 20 or more, contact Claire Grothe at (314) 367-9243 ext. 105 or [email protected], Sun. Noon – 5 p.m., Tues. Weds. Sat. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Thurs. & Fri. 10 a.m.-9 p.m., 4652 Maryland Ave., (314) 367-WCHF.