I first met Brant Baldanza, an owner of the newly-opened Cucina Pazzo by Justin, just as Karen Duffy and Tim Kirby were packing up the last remnants of Duff's, the storied restaurant they operated at 392 N. Euclid for 41 years. Brant was excited to be opening an OG Hospitality Group restaurant in the CWE, but also realized he and his partner, John Fogarty, had a tough act to follow. (Other OGHG's include The Tavern on Dougherty Ferry & Big Bend, Corner Pub & Grill also at Dougherty Ferry & Big Bend and at Clarkson & Clayton Rds., Shack PubGrub on Laclede.) The new owners were sensitive to what Duff's meant to so many St. Louisans, and they wanted to retain as many details as they could and blend them into the new space, a traditional but updated Italian restaurant.
Cucina Pazzo opened approximately two weeks ago and those "dyed-in-the-wool" Duff's fans will find a lot that's familiar. The new restaurant has maintained much of Duff's coziness. The brick walls and wood floors remain (including the slope from the bar to the dining room), and wainscotting has simply been painted. One of the major changes, other than the addition of a fabulous open kitchen, see below, is the stained-glass windows have been replaced with plate glass, bringing the familiar streetscape inside.
The open kitchen that fills the back of the dining room offers a chef's counter, far right. A friend & I sat there Friday, and while we ate and chatted we also enjoyed watching Chef Justin Haifley and his sous-chef in action. Justin was the chef at The Tavern before moving to the CWE.
The bar has been expanded, above and below.
At dinner, a complimentary pan of hot bread is brought to the table accompanied by Sicilian butter sauce.
The menu is divided into sections typical of a 3-course Italian meal. Antipasti include toasts, salads (see below), soups & sfizi (cravings) meant to be shared family-style, $6 to $12. Pastas include Ricotta Gnudi, above, and paninis featuring choices such as porchetta on focaccia with caramelized Brussels Sprouts, pear Mostarda, jalapeno honey mustard, & sunny side egg, $12. Sides include a creamy Anson Mills polenta with Italian sausage ragu, $6. (As you read this, you might be thinking it's a good thing this is a walking neighborhood.)
After 5 p.m., dinner service includes main course options such as General Manager Wade Taylor's favorite, Stracotto (beef shortribs), $19. Gluten-free and vegetarian options are available too.
A delicious escarole salad is served with a buttermilk Kalamata dressing on the side, $8.
Those who loved brunch at Duff's can now enjoy a Sunday morning repast at the new restaurant, starting at 10 a.m. There is a private dining room that seats 40-50, and the restaurant offers catering services too.
Cucina Pazzo by Justin, 392 N. Euclid, serving lunch & dinner, Mon. – Sat. from 11 a.m., Sunday brunch 10-2, (314) 696-8400.